Spanish Conquistador

The Age

Tuesday August 26, 2008

John Lethlean

In the introduction to his 2007 book MoVida - Spanish Culinary Adventures, Frank Camorra explains the term "Movida" - the urban cultural movement of Spain that followed Franco's death in 1975, the "reawakening of the spirit of youth".

It was called La Movida Madrilena or the Madrid Movement.

In years to come, we may adopt - and adapt - our own Australian version, La Movida MoVida; the MoVida Movement. Because there can be little doubt that Frank Camorra, the sober, thoughtful chef who has done more than anyone to champion Spanish ideas and direction in modern Australian gastronomy, has provided a foundation stone from which new, exciting possibilities will continue to emerge.

Already, young chefs are doing their own thing - both here and interstate - building on the inspiration of his consultancy and tuition, proud to have Camorra's name on their CVs. Don't expect that to change; Camorra has imbued many with his passion for traditional and modern Spanish food and may well turn out to be to Spanish cooking what Greg Malouf has been to modern Middle Eastern.

And because of that first, important book, many of us have been empowered to see food, and cook, if only a little like Camorra. And that's a good thing.

It doesn't hurt that the Hosier Lane restaurant in which he's a partner is a decidedly cool Melbourne bolthole - well-run, fun, a little bit naughty, a great place for a glass of Spanish wine. With any modestly talented chef, it would be a good place.

But with Camorra, a hard-working and determined chef who almost became an architect, MoVida is a special place. A place where, yes, you feel centuries of tradition in the food and wine as well as that reawakening, that Spanish passion for the new, the creative, the artistic.

MoVida continues to be a beacon of what is good and great about Melbourne, a chef's restaurant with great support and partnerships outside the restaurant.

For Camorra, it's all about focus. The main game is the restaurant's food, whether it be the dining room or the new bar next door. Then comes his culinary anthropology - he's researching a second food book that will be far more than a collection of recipes for busy people - and a consulting role in Brisbane.

There is little scope for frippery.

Because of that, Frank Camorra has come a long way, fast. We think his journey as one of Australia's most influential chefs has plenty of legs yet. And he's making a lot of people happy along the way. -- JOHN LETHLEAN

© 2008 The Age

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